CLICK HERE FOR IMPORTANT ARCHERY LINKS

The Nitty Gritty of Feathers

The most popular feather shape in the US is the Parabolic / Round Back. This lower profile shape provides quiet, fast and accurate results. The Shield / Shield Back provides a higher profile for increased stability, forgiveness and "Traditional" looking appeal. The Magnum / Banana Cut is even more feather for arrows tipped with larger / heavier broadheads. The Cut section / Full Lengths are made for Archers to design their own shapes and sizes by using a feather burner or chopper.

LEARN MORE...


 


FAQ's


1. Q: I am right handed. What wing feather do I need to use?
A: You may use whichever wing feather you wish. The only qualifier is the type of clamp you use to fletch your arrows. Please read more in the Nitty Gritty page of this Website # 4.

2. Q: How do I tell what wing feathers are on my arrows?
A: Looking from the nock end of your arrow notice there is a "lip" on one side of the feather and not on the other. If the "lip" is on the left you have a right wing feather. If the "lip" is on right side of the feather you are shooting left wing feathers.

3. Q: I fletch my arrows straight fletch. Can I use right and left wing feathers on the same arrow?
A: No! Do not use different wing feathers on the same arrow. You can use either wing feather on your arrows but pick one and stay with it.

4. Q: One of my fletchings is damaged how do I replace it?
A: Start by identifying which wing feather is on your arrow. Ensure you buy the correct replacement feather. Take a butter knife and working away from yourself, scrape under the feather, removing it and the old white quill section. Don't try to remove the feather in one stroke. You can even get the old glue to come off if you take your time. Clean the arrow shaft with rubbing alcohol, to remove all of the debris, then refletch your arrow. If you can't get your fletching jig to line up on the old glue line you may need to replace all of the fletchings. Using one jig to build all of your arrows is a good way to make fletching replacement easier.

5. Q: What size feather do I need to use?
A: We have given you a guide to use on our "Nitty Gritty" page, # 2. Start with your bow and find the correct arrow shaft. It doesn't matter if you use wood, aluminum or carbon, find the correct arrow shaft and then tune the arrow to your bow. Tune the arrow to the bow by using either the "paper test" method or the "bare shaft" method and then use the smallest amount of feather you can to get the fastest, quietest arrow in the woods. Remember any broadhead will require more guidance than a field point and mechanical broadheads usually need less guidance than fixed blade broadheads.

6. Q: Do shield shape feathers cause more drag than parabolic shaped feathers?
A: The shield shape uses more feather in its profile to be able to handle heavier tipped arrows. The drag you ask about is actually what guides your arrows through the air, rain and brush to hit it's target. For shots out to 40 yards don't worry about excess drag.

7. Q: Are parabolic shaped feathers faster than shield shaped feathers?
A: From the testing we've done, through a chronograph out to 30 yards, No. Identical arrows other than one having 4" parabolic feathers and the other 4" shield shape feathers were shot and both readings were identical.

8. Q: Are feather fletched arrows faster than plastic vane fletched arrows?
A: Feather fletched arrows are faster than plastic vane fletched arrows out to 40 yards. From 40 to 60 yards the speeds are the same and then plastic overtakes feathers. That's why we recommend using the smallest feather applicable to your setup. In case you take target shots at 90 meters.

9. Q: What glue do you recommend to attach feathers to carbon arrows?
A: The most important step in fletching your arrows is cleaning the arrow before putting any fletching on it. If you do not clean the arrow shaft you will get poor results. One great glue available now is AAE Fastset Gel. We have not tried some of the other glues available but please remember to put a drop of Fletchtite on the ends of your feathers to keep them from peeling up on pass through shots.

10. Q: I want to splice feathers for my arrows. How do I begin?
A: Please refer to our Website page called "Nitty Gritty" # 6c. Also, in our Archived July 2001 "Newsroom" page there is a complete guide with photographs.

11. Q: Where can I purchase "Gateway" feathers?
A: Any pro shop may order direct from us. Please ask them to help you. We are easy to work with and there really is no minimum purchase. If there isn't a pro shop near you there are Mail Order and Internet options available depending on what feather you want. Please contact us for help.

12. Q: What is the correct way to apply the Waterproofing Powder?
A: Please refer to our Website page called "Nitty Gritty" #6 H.


 


Glossary of Archery Terms

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z



ASA:
Archery Shooters Association - www.asaarchery.com

Accent stripes:
thin colored laminations that run through the riser section of the bow

Anchor Point:
The exact location a person pulls the bow string back to; before releasing

Armguard:
material attached to the forearm to protect it while shooting a bow

Arrow plate:
material attached on the side of the sight window to protect it and quiet the arrow as it is drawn and shot

Arrow shaft:
main body of the arrow, not including the nock or point end, made from a variety of materials

Arrow shelf:
area of bow directly above the handle or grip section where arrows are placed to be "shot off the shelf"

Back of bow:
side farthest away from you when you correctly hold the strung bow

Backset, handle:
bow design that has just the handle or grip setting behind the limbs

Backset, riser:
bow design that has the entire riser setting behind the limbs

Banana shape:
feather fletching with a half moon shape also called magnum shape

Bare shaft:
a blank arrow without nocks, inserts, points, feathers, stain or paint.

Barreled shaft:
shaft that is tapered smaller on each end than it is in the center section of the shaft

Belly of bow:
side closest to you when you correctly hold the strung bow

Blunts:
flat ended arrow points that are made from various materials; used for small game and practice shooting

Bow glass:
fiberglass laminations put on the back and belly of a laminated bow during construction

Bow square:
T-shaped tool used to determine where to place string nock, also can be used to measure brace height and tiller

Bow string:
strands of material served and twisted together to form a string used to propel an arrow

Bow stringer:
a device used to properly Brace a bow

Boyer:
one who makes or repairs bows

Brace:
the stringing of a bow

Brace height:
distance, generally measured from the string nock to the deepest part of the handle / grip

Broadhead, Fixed blades:
point with two or more sharpened, wide blades; used for hunting once attached the blades do not move

Broadhead, Mechanical blades:
point with two or more sharpened blades; used for hunting, that open on impact with the target

Cable guard:
an accessory used on compound bows which moves the cables away from the centerline of the bow allowing the arrow to pass by without contacting the cables

Cam:
an egg shaped wheel / pulley on a limb(s) of compound bows used to store energy and provide let-off

Cast:
degree of efficiency a bow has to propel an arrow

Center shot:
when the bow's sight window is cut to the imaginary centerline that runs down the belly of the bow

Clicker:
A tool attached to the back of the bow which clicks when you are at your desired anchor point (not used while hunting)

Cock feather:
odd colored or marked feather, on an arrow with three feathers

Compound bow, double cam:
an archery bow with two cams, one each limb to store energy and provide let-off

Compound bow, single cam:
an archery bow with one cam (perimeter weighted and bottom limb mounted) and one wheel providing a very fast and smooth shot

Crest:
bands of paint used as decoration on an arrow, usually placed to give a clean edge on the crown dip

Crester:
spins the arrow shaft so that cresting can be applied

Cresting brush:
brush used to apply cresting paint to arrow shaft

Crossbow:
a mechanically drawn bow, held, sighted and shot like a rifle

Crossbow Bolt:
what the projectile fired from the crossbow is called

Crown dip:
is color (paint or stain) applied to the back 8-12" (nock end) of the arrow

Cut off center:
a bow having a sight window not cut to the centerline of the bowbelly (the bow's an 1/8" off center)

Cut past center:
a bow having it's sight window cut a certain amount past the imaginary centerline of the bow's belly

Dacron:
nylon type material used to make bowstrings

Deflex:
section of the limb and or riser that bends toward the bowstring

Draw a bow:
the act of pulling the string on a bow

Draw length:
distance a person draws a bow, generally measured from the bottom of the arrow nock (throat) to the back (side facing farthest away from you) of a correctly held bow

Draw loop:
attached on the string, over the string nock, used with a release to pull the string with no pinch

Draw weight:
actual amount of weight taken to pull a bow a certain distance; usually measured at 28" (50lbs @ 28")

Elevated rest:
arrow rest that is attached to the sight window or installed through the riser, to "elevate" the arrow above the shelf

Endless loop:
simple bowstring with a loop on both ends

Fadeouts:
the very ends of the riser where the riser "fades out" into the limbs

Fast flight:
relatively new lightweight material that has little stretch and is very strong, used to make modern bowstrings

Feather, full length
a 10" - 12" long uncut feather that can be used for making a flu flu arrow or be cut or burned to a particular shape

Feather, die cut:
a feather that has been cut to a particular shape like a parabolic, shield or magnum shapes

Feather splice:
taking two or more different colored feathers, cutting out sections and "splicing" them back together to form a
uniquely colored feather then gluing the one piece on the arrow

Field points:
round, sharp ended arrow points made from steel used for target practice

Finger pinch:
describes having your finger pinched against the arrow nock by the bow string when pulling the string back

Fistmele:
see brace height

FITA:
International Federation of Target Archers - call 011 41 21 614 3050

Flat bow:
a short longbow with a wide limb design

Flemished string:
short for flemish twist string it consist of two separate bundles of string hand twisted together

Fletching:
material used to stabilize an arrow in flight made either from natural feathers or plastic (preferably feathers) ;>)

Fletching clamp:
clamp fletching is inserted into, then clamp is attached to fletching jig, in order to apply fletching to shaft

Fletching jig:
tool used to hold the fletching clamp which will apply fletching to arrow shaft

Flipper rest:
simple elevated rest attached to the riser / sight window

Flu flu:
an arrow with large unshaped feathers to limit the distance in which it flies: commonly used to shoot such things as aerial targets and small game hunting

Forgiveness:
ability of a bow to be shot in many different positions without any noticeable affects on accuracy

Forward set:
describes a bow that has the handle and/or the riser setting in front of the limbs ("has a forward set riser")

Grain weight:
refers to the actual weight of an arrow or arrow accessories in terms of grains

Grip:
section of the bow riser where you place your hand to shoot the bow

Hand shock
the felt vibration produced by a bow after it has been shot

Hen feather:
two feathers of the same color on an arrow which has three feathers

IBO:
International Bowhunting Organization - call - 1 216 967 2137

IFAA:
International Field Archery Association

Judo point:
a flat ended arrow point, used like a blunt point but with spring arms which grab and keep the arrow from skipping or completely penetrating the target

Kisser button:
a string accessory used at full draw to hold your anchor point consistently in the same position

Lamination taper:
amount of taper from the butt to the tip of the limb lamination (example: lamination taper is .030 per inch)

Laminations:
thin strips of material that run the length of a laminated bow, both in the limb and riser section

Let-Off:
the amount in percent, a bows holding weight is reduced from its pulling weight

Limb:
section of the bow that starts at the fadeouts and goes to the end of the bow

Limb core:
laminations sandwiched between the two layers of bow glass; makes up the "core" of the limbs

Limb taper:
amount that the limb width tapers from the fade outs to the tips (example: limb tapers from 1 3/4" to 3/4")

Limb tips:
end of the limbs where the string groves / nocks are

Limb wedges:
wedge shaped piece between the limb laminations at the base of the limbs this term is generally used in reference to a take down bow's limbs

Longbow:
is a non-compound archery bow having two limbs of any cross section connected by a handle, either one piece or takedown, so when strung at the manufacturer's recommended brace height the bowstring does not touch the limb at any point other than the string nocks.

Magnum Shape:
See Banana Shape

NAA:
National Archery Association - call -1 719 578 4621

NABH:
North American Bow Hunters - call - 1 800 224 4990

NFAA:
National Field Archery Association - call - 1 800 811 2331

Nock, arrow:
plastic part glued or pressed into the back of an arrow that accepts the bowstring

Nock, bow:
a term sometimes used to describe the string groves on each end of the bow

Nock, cushion:
used as a barrier between the string nock and a release to lessen the pinch at full draw

Nock, self:
grove that is manually cut in the back of primitive arrows to accept the bowstring

Nock, string:
various material put on bow string to permanently mark the nocking point

Nocking pliers:
used to put on brass string nocks

Nocking point:
exact spot on bowstring where the arrow is placed before being shot

Off the shelf:
refer to arrow shelf

Over-bowed:
term used to describe someone shooting a bow which they cannot physically control

Overlays:
laminations used in the grip and limb tip areas to beautify and strengthen those areas

Parabolic Shape:
feather that has a round back shape

Parrell shaft:
an arrow shaft the same diameter from one end to the other

Points, Blunts:
see blunts

Points, Broadhead fixed blade:
see Broadhead, fixed blade

Points, Broadhead mechanical blade:
see Broadhead, mechanical blade

Points, Field:
see Field points

Points, Judo:
see Judo points

Quiver:
a device that holds arrows

Quiver, back:
arrow holding device worn on ones back, tube shape or quiet backpack style

Quiver, bow:
arrow holding device that is attached to the bows riser or limbs

Quiver, cat:
unique back quiver keeps arrows separated for quietness

Quiver, hip:
quiver attached to a belt and worn on the hip; usually keeps arrows divided

Quiver, pocket:
small pouch worn inside the pants pocket where a few arrows may be carried

Quiver, tube:
round "tube" shaped quiver worn on the hip

Recurve bow:
is a non-compound archery bow having two limbs of any cross section connected by a handle, either one piece or takedown, so when strung at the manufacturer's recommended brace height the string contacts the limbs after it leaves the string nocks

Reflex:
section of the limb and or riser that bends away from the bowstring

Release:
the act of releasing the bowstring when shooting; also see Release, mechanical

Release, Mechanical:
a tool attached to the string providing Archers smooth consistent string releases when used properly

Riser:
middle section of bow that includes the grip, shelf, sight window and can include misc. screw-in inserts

Roving quiver:
cross between a hip quiver and a tube quiver; worn on the hip

Rub:
Damage on a tree, shrub or fence post where a male deer has raked his antlers

Rut:
a time of year when male deer mate or attempt to mate with the females

Scrape:
a territorial marking male deer "scrape" in the ground showing their readiness to mate, also allows the female deer
to urinate in and show readiness and willingness to mate

Self bow:
is a non-compound archery bow made from wood with no glass backing in either the Longbow or Recurve styles.

Serving:
thread like material applied to the middle of the bow string to increase wear resistance also applied in the loops of an "endless loop" string

Serving jig:
small tool used to apply serving to bowstring

Shield cut:
feather having a concave shape in the rear

Shooting glove:
leather glove used to protect the fingers while shooting

Shooting, Tab:
small piece of leather material placed between fingers and string to protect the fingers while shooting

Sight window:
area of the bow directly above the arrow shelf

Sight, peep:
a rear sight placed in the string, allowing the shooter to look through the string aligning front and rear sights

Smoothness:
describes the way a bow feels when drawn: the ability of a bow to be drawn back without any felt "catches"

Spine:
describes the stiffness of an arrow shaft

Spine tester:
tool used to determine the spine of a shaft

Spine weight:
refers to the strength of an arrow in terms of poundage or a range of poundage (50#-55# spine)

Stability:
describes the stiffness of the bow limbs when draw, in relation to their twisting side to side

Stabilizer:
attaches to the back of the bow extending forward used to dampen vibration

String grove:
groves at the end of the bow limbs: where the bow string is held in place

Take down bow:
bow that can be taken apart for ease of transportation, bows typically consist of either 2 or 3 pieces

Tapered shaft:
shaft which has the back 10-12" tapered down to a smaller diameter typically from 23/64" to 5/16"

Throat of grip:
deepest spot of the grip / handle

Tiller:
the amount that one limb is weakened compared to the other limb in order for the two limbs to be in time

Tip wedge:
wedge shaped piece put between limb lamination in the tip area

Tree stand:
an elevated location in the trees where one can shoot from

 

Home  | Company  |  Products  |  Technical  |  Downloads  |  Store