CLICK HERE
FOR IMPORTANT ARCHERY LINKS
The Nitty
Gritty of Feathers
The most
popular
feather
shape in the
US is the
Parabolic /
Round Back.
This lower
profile
shape
provides
quiet, fast
and accurate
results. The
Shield /
Shield Back
provides a
higher
profile for
increased
stability,
forgiveness
and
"Traditional"
looking
appeal. The
Magnum /
Banana Cut
is even more
feather for
arrows
tipped with
larger /
heavier
broadheads.
The Cut
section /
Full Lengths
are made for
Archers to
design their
own shapes
and sizes by
using a
feather
burner or
chopper.
|
FAQ's
1. Q: I am right handed. What wing feather do
I need to use?
A: You may use whichever wing feather you wish.
The only qualifier is the type of clamp you use
to fletch your arrows. Please read more in the
Nitty Gritty page of this Website # 4.
2. Q: How do I tell what wing feathers are on
my arrows?
A: Looking from the nock end of your arrow
notice there is a "lip" on one side of the
feather and not on the other. If the "lip" is on
the left you have a right wing feather. If the
"lip" is on right side of the feather you are
shooting left wing feathers.
3. Q: I fletch my arrows straight fletch. Can
I use right and left wing feathers on the same
arrow?
A: No! Do not use different wing feathers on the
same arrow. You can use either wing feather on
your arrows but pick one and stay with it.
4. Q: One of my fletchings is damaged how do
I replace it?
A: Start by identifying which wing feather is on
your arrow. Ensure you buy the correct
replacement feather. Take a butter knife and
working away from yourself, scrape under the
feather, removing it and the old white quill
section. Don't try to remove the feather in one
stroke. You can even get the old glue to come
off if you take your time. Clean the arrow shaft
with rubbing alcohol, to remove all of the
debris, then refletch your arrow. If you can't
get your fletching jig to line up on the old
glue line you may need to replace all of the
fletchings. Using one jig to build all of your
arrows is a good way to make fletching
replacement easier.
5. Q: What size feather do I need to use?
A: We have given you a guide to use on our
"Nitty
Gritty" page, # 2. Start with your bow and find
the correct arrow shaft. It doesn't matter if
you use wood, aluminum or carbon, find the
correct arrow shaft and then tune the arrow to
your bow. Tune the arrow to the bow by using
either the "paper test" method or the "bare
shaft" method and then use the smallest amount
of feather you can to get the fastest, quietest
arrow in the woods. Remember any broadhead will
require more guidance than a field point and
mechanical broadheads usually need less guidance
than fixed blade broadheads.
6. Q: Do shield shape feathers cause more
drag than parabolic shaped feathers?
A: The shield shape uses more feather in its
profile to be able to handle heavier tipped
arrows. The drag you ask about is actually what
guides your arrows through the air, rain and
brush to hit it's target. For shots out to 40
yards don't worry about excess drag.
7. Q: Are parabolic shaped feathers faster
than shield shaped feathers?
A: From the testing we've done, through a
chronograph out to 30 yards, No. Identical
arrows other than one having 4" parabolic
feathers and the other 4" shield shape feathers
were shot and both readings were identical.
8. Q: Are feather fletched arrows faster than
plastic vane fletched arrows?
A: Feather fletched arrows are faster than
plastic vane fletched arrows out to 40 yards.
From 40 to 60 yards the speeds are the same and
then plastic overtakes feathers. That's why we
recommend using the smallest feather applicable
to your setup. In case you take target shots at
90 meters.
9. Q: What glue do you recommend to attach
feathers to carbon arrows?
A: The most important step in fletching your
arrows is cleaning the arrow before putting any
fletching on it. If you do not clean the arrow
shaft you will get poor results. One great glue
available now is AAE Fastset Gel. We have not
tried some of the other glues available but
please remember to put a drop of Fletchtite on
the ends of your feathers to keep them from
peeling up on pass through shots.
10. Q: I want to splice feathers for my
arrows. How do I begin?
A: Please refer to our Website page called
"Nitty
Gritty" # 6c. Also, in our Archived July 2001
"Newsroom" page there is a complete guide with
photographs.
11. Q: Where can I purchase "Gateway"
feathers?
A: Any pro shop may order direct from us. Please
ask them to help you. We are easy to work with
and there really is no minimum purchase. If
there isn't a pro shop near you there are Mail
Order and Internet options available depending
on what feather you want. Please contact us for
help.
12. Q: What is the correct way to apply the
Waterproofing Powder?
A: Please refer to our Website page called
"Nitty
Gritty" #6 H.
|
Glossary of Archery Terms
ASA:
Archery Shooters Association -
www.asaarchery.com
Accent stripes:
thin colored laminations that run through the riser
section of the bow
Anchor Point:
The exact location a person pulls the bow string back
to; before releasing
Armguard:
material attached to the forearm to protect it while
shooting a bow
Arrow plate:
material attached on the side of the sight window to
protect it and quiet the arrow as it is drawn and shot
Arrow shaft:
main body of the arrow, not including the nock or point
end, made from a variety of materials
Arrow shelf:
area of bow directly above the handle or grip section
where arrows are placed to be "shot off the shelf"
Back of bow:
side farthest away from you when you correctly hold the
strung bow
Backset, handle:
bow design that has just the handle or grip setting
behind the limbs
Backset, riser:
bow design that has the entire riser setting behind the
limbs
Banana shape:
feather fletching with a half moon shape also called
magnum shape
Bare shaft:
a blank arrow without nocks, inserts, points, feathers,
stain or paint.
Barreled shaft:
shaft that is tapered smaller on each end than it is in
the center section of the shaft
Belly of bow:
side closest to you when you correctly hold the strung
bow
Blunts:
flat ended arrow points that are made from various
materials; used for small game and practice shooting
Bow glass:
fiberglass laminations put on the back and belly of a
laminated bow during construction
Bow square:
T-shaped tool used to determine where to place string
nock, also can be used to measure brace height and
tiller
Bow string:
strands of material served and twisted together to form
a string used to propel an arrow
Bow stringer:
a device used to properly Brace a bow
Boyer:
one who makes or repairs bows
Brace:
the stringing of a bow
Brace height:
distance, generally measured from the string nock to the
deepest part of the handle / grip
Broadhead, Fixed blades:
point with two or more sharpened, wide blades; used for
hunting once attached the blades do not move
Broadhead, Mechanical blades:
point with two or more sharpened blades; used for
hunting, that open on impact with the target
Cable guard:
an accessory used on compound bows which moves the
cables away from the centerline of the bow allowing the
arrow to pass by without contacting the cables
Cam:
an egg shaped wheel / pulley on a limb(s) of compound
bows used to store energy and provide let-off
Cast:
degree of efficiency a bow has to propel an arrow
Center shot:
when the bow's sight window is cut to the imaginary
centerline that runs down the belly of the bow
Clicker:
A tool attached to the back of the bow which clicks when
you are at your desired anchor point (not used while
hunting)
Cock feather:
odd colored or marked feather, on an arrow with three
feathers
Compound bow, double cam:
an archery bow with two cams, one each limb to store
energy and provide let-off
Compound bow, single cam:
an archery bow with one cam (perimeter weighted and
bottom limb mounted) and one wheel providing a very fast
and smooth shot
Crest:
bands of paint used as decoration on an arrow, usually
placed to give a clean edge on the crown dip
Crester:
spins the arrow shaft so that cresting can be applied
Cresting brush:
brush used to apply cresting paint to arrow shaft
Crossbow:
a mechanically drawn bow, held, sighted and shot like a
rifle
Crossbow Bolt:
what the projectile fired from the crossbow is called
Crown dip:
is color (paint or stain) applied to the back 8-12"
(nock end) of the arrow
Cut off center:
a bow having a sight window not cut to the centerline of
the bowbelly (the bow's an 1/8" off center)
Cut past center:
a bow having it's sight window cut a certain amount past
the imaginary centerline of the bow's belly
Dacron:
nylon type material used to make bowstrings
Deflex:
section of the limb and or riser that bends toward the
bowstring
Draw a bow:
the act of pulling the string on a bow
Draw length:
distance a person draws a bow, generally measured from
the bottom of the arrow nock (throat) to the back (side
facing farthest away from you) of a correctly held bow
Draw loop:
attached on the string, over the string nock, used with
a release to pull the string with no pinch
Draw weight:
actual amount of weight taken to pull a bow a certain
distance; usually measured at 28" (50lbs @ 28")
Elevated rest:
arrow rest that is attached to the sight window or
installed through the riser, to "elevate" the arrow
above the shelf
Endless loop:
simple bowstring with a loop on both ends
Fadeouts:
the very ends of the riser where the riser "fades out"
into the limbs
Fast flight:
relatively new lightweight material that has little
stretch and is very strong, used to make modern
bowstrings
Feather, full length
a 10" - 12" long uncut feather that can be used for
making a flu flu arrow or be cut or burned to a
particular shape
Feather, die cut:
a feather that has been cut to a particular shape like a
parabolic, shield or magnum shapes
Feather splice:
taking two or more different colored feathers, cutting
out sections and "splicing" them back together to form a
uniquely colored feather then gluing the one piece on
the arrow
Field points:
round, sharp ended arrow points made from steel used for
target practice
Finger pinch:
describes having your finger pinched against the arrow
nock by the bow string when pulling the string back
Fistmele:
see brace height
FITA:
International Federation of Target Archers - call 011 41
21 614 3050
Flat bow:
a short longbow with a wide limb design
Flemished string:
short for flemish twist string it consist of two
separate bundles of string hand twisted together
Fletching:
material used to stabilize an arrow in flight made
either from natural feathers or plastic (preferably
feathers) ;>)
Fletching clamp:
clamp fletching is inserted into, then clamp is attached
to fletching jig, in order to apply fletching to shaft
Fletching jig:
tool used to hold the fletching clamp which will apply
fletching to arrow shaft
Flipper rest:
simple elevated rest attached to the riser / sight
window
Flu flu:
an arrow with large unshaped feathers to limit the
distance in which it flies: commonly used to shoot such
things as aerial targets and small game hunting
Forgiveness:
ability of a bow to be shot in many different positions
without any noticeable affects on accuracy
Forward set:
describes a bow that has the handle and/or the riser
setting in front of the limbs ("has a forward set
riser")
Grain weight:
refers to the actual weight of an arrow or arrow
accessories in terms of grains
Grip:
section of the bow riser where you place your hand to
shoot the bow
Hand shock
the felt vibration produced by a bow after it has been
shot
Hen feather:
two feathers of the same color on an arrow which has
three feathers
IBO:
International Bowhunting Organization - call - 1 216 967
2137
IFAA:
International Field Archery Association
Judo point:
a flat ended arrow point, used like a blunt point but
with spring arms which grab and keep the arrow from
skipping or completely penetrating the target
Kisser button:
a string accessory used at full draw to hold your anchor
point consistently in the same position
Lamination taper:
amount of taper from the butt to the tip of the limb
lamination (example: lamination taper is .030 per inch)
Laminations:
thin strips of material that run the length of a
laminated bow, both in the limb and riser section
Let-Off:
the amount in percent, a bows holding weight is reduced
from its pulling weight
Limb:
section of the bow that starts at the fadeouts and goes
to the end of the bow
Limb core:
laminations sandwiched between the two layers of bow
glass; makes up the "core" of the limbs
Limb taper:
amount that the limb width tapers from the fade outs to
the tips (example: limb tapers from 1 3/4" to 3/4")
Limb tips:
end of the limbs where the string groves / nocks are
Limb wedges:
wedge shaped piece between the limb laminations at the
base of the limbs this term is generally used in
reference to a take down bow's limbs
Longbow:
is a non-compound archery bow having two limbs of any
cross section connected by a handle, either one piece or
takedown, so when strung at the manufacturer's
recommended brace height the bowstring does not touch
the limb at any point other than the string nocks.
Magnum Shape:
See Banana Shape
NAA:
National Archery Association - call -1 719 578 4621
NABH:
North American Bow Hunters - call - 1 800 224 4990
NFAA:
National Field Archery Association - call - 1 800 811
2331
Nock, arrow:
plastic part glued or pressed into the back of an arrow
that accepts the bowstring
Nock, bow:
a term sometimes used to describe the string groves on
each end of the bow
Nock, cushion:
used as a barrier between the string nock and a release
to lessen the pinch at full draw
Nock, self:
grove that is manually cut in the back of primitive
arrows to accept the bowstring
Nock, string:
various material put on bow string to permanently mark
the nocking point
Nocking pliers:
used to put on brass string nocks
Nocking point:
exact spot on bowstring where the arrow is placed before
being shot
Off the shelf:
refer to arrow shelf
Over-bowed:
term used to describe someone shooting a bow which they
cannot physically control
Overlays:
laminations used in the grip and limb tip areas to
beautify and strengthen those areas
Parabolic Shape:
feather that has a round back shape
Parrell shaft:
an arrow shaft the same diameter from one end to the
other
Points, Blunts:
see blunts
Points, Broadhead fixed blade:
see Broadhead, fixed blade
Points, Broadhead mechanical blade:
see Broadhead, mechanical blade
Points, Field:
see Field points
Points, Judo:
see Judo points
Quiver:
a device that holds arrows
Quiver, back:
arrow holding device worn on ones back, tube shape or
quiet backpack style
Quiver, bow:
arrow holding device that is attached to the bows riser
or limbs
Quiver, cat:
unique back quiver keeps arrows separated for quietness
Quiver, hip:
quiver attached to a belt and worn on the hip; usually
keeps arrows divided
Quiver, pocket:
small pouch worn inside the pants pocket where a few
arrows may be carried
Quiver, tube:
round "tube" shaped quiver worn on the hip
Recurve bow:
is a non-compound archery bow having two limbs of any
cross section connected by a handle, either one piece or
takedown, so when strung at the manufacturer's
recommended brace height the string contacts the limbs
after it leaves the string nocks
Reflex:
section of the limb and or riser that bends away from
the bowstring
Release:
the act of releasing the bowstring when shooting; also
see Release, mechanical
Release, Mechanical:
a tool attached to the string providing Archers smooth
consistent string releases when used properly
Riser:
middle section of bow that includes the grip, shelf,
sight window and can include misc. screw-in inserts
Roving quiver:
cross between a hip quiver and a tube quiver; worn on
the hip
Rub:
Damage on a tree, shrub or fence post where a male deer
has raked his antlers
Rut:
a time of year when male deer mate or attempt to mate
with the females
Scrape:
a territorial marking male deer "scrape" in the ground
showing their readiness to mate, also allows the female
deer
to urinate in and show readiness and willingness to mate
Self bow:
is a non-compound archery bow made from wood with no
glass backing in either the Longbow or Recurve styles.
Serving:
thread like material applied to the middle of the bow
string to increase wear resistance also applied in the
loops of an "endless loop" string
Serving jig:
small tool used to apply serving to bowstring
Shield cut:
feather having a concave shape in the rear
Shooting glove:
leather glove used to protect the fingers while shooting
Shooting, Tab:
small piece of leather material placed between fingers
and string to protect the fingers while shooting
Sight window:
area of the bow directly above the arrow shelf
Sight, peep:
a rear sight placed in the string, allowing the shooter
to look through the string aligning front and rear
sights
Smoothness:
describes the way a bow feels when drawn: the ability of
a bow to be drawn back without any felt "catches"
Spine:
describes the stiffness of an arrow shaft
Spine tester:
tool used to determine the spine of a shaft
Spine weight:
refers to the strength of an arrow in terms of poundage
or a range of poundage (50#-55# spine)
Stability:
describes the stiffness of the bow limbs when draw, in
relation to their twisting side to side
Stabilizer:
attaches to the back of the bow extending forward used
to dampen vibration
String grove:
groves at the end of the bow limbs: where the bow string
is held in place
Take down bow:
bow that can be taken apart for ease of transportation,
bows typically consist of either 2 or 3 pieces
Tapered shaft:
shaft which has the back 10-12" tapered down to a
smaller diameter typically from 23/64" to 5/16"
Throat of grip:
deepest spot of the grip / handle
Tiller:
the amount that one limb is weakened compared to the
other limb in order for the two limbs to be in time
Tip wedge:
wedge shaped piece put between limb lamination in the
tip area
Tree stand:
an elevated location in the trees where one can shoot
from |